Friday, April 27, 2012

shivaji maharaj history in english





Chatrapati Shivaji - The chastiser of the Mughals



Shivaji Bhosle, also known as Chhatrapati Shivaji Raje Bhosle (Marathi: छत्रपती शिवाजीराजे भोसले) (Born:February 19, 1630, Died: March 4, 1680) was the founder of Maratha empire in western India in 1674.


He raised a strong army and navy, constructed and repaired forts, used guerilla warfare tactics, developed a strong intelligence network, gave equal treatment to the people from all religions and castes based on merit, and functioned like a seasoned Statesman and General. He appointed ministers with specific functions such as Internal security, Foreign affairs, Finance, Law and Justice, Religious matters, Defense etc. He introduced systems in revenue collection and warned the officials against harassment of subjects. He thought ahead of times and was a true visionary. In his private life, his moral virtues were exceptionally high. His thoughts and deeds were inspired by the teachings of his mother Jijabai, teacher Dadaji Konddev, great saints like Dnyaneshwar & Tukaram and the valiancy and ideals of the Lords Rama and Krishna



The Marathas - Samurais from Western India
The Marathas are a proud and hardy race who are a sub-set of the wider Hindu Community. They are first mentioned in Indian history as the stout fighters in the army of the Chalukya King Pulikeshin who resisted the Southward march of Emperor Harsha in the 7th century C.E



The Maratha dynasties of the ancient (pre-Muslim) period are the Chalukyas (500 C.E. to 750C.E.), the Rastrakutas (750 C.E. to 978 C.E. and the Yadavas or Jadhavs (1175 C.E. to 1318 C.E.).

The Marathas were the first who crossed Malik Kafur's path, when he invaded the deccan in 1314 C.E. They were then led by the last scion of the Yadava dynasty - Ramdev Rai Yadava who ruled from Devagiri (today's Daulatabad). In their first clash with the Muslims; the Marathas lost to the invaders and accepted the status of being vassals and mercenaries of their Muslim overlords.


The Marathas before Shivaji were Mercenaries and revenue Collectors for the Muslim Rulers
In keeping with the feudal tradition, the Maratha Sardars (Generals), before Shivaji kept shifting their loyalties from one Muslim ruler to another. And there were many Muslim rulers like the Adilshahis at Bijapur, the Nizamshahis at Ahmednagar (Berar), the Qutubshahis at Golkonda (Hyderabad), etc.


Shahji Bhosale, who was Shivaji's father typified this practice of shifting loyalties from one Muslim overlord to another. He was from time-to-time in the service of the Mughals, the Adilshahis and the Nizamshahis. The thought of establishing an independent Maratha-Hindu kingdom, does seem to have crossed his mind, but he never really got about to doing it successfully. The germ of this idea however seems to have got rubbed into Shivaji - his son by Jijabai.


Shivaji Maharaj - the Visionary Saint-SoldierShivaji was born in the year 1627 at the Fort of Shivneri in Maharashtra in Western India. Shivaji's mother, Jijabai was a direct descendant of the erstwhile Yadav royal family of Devagiri. She seems to have nursed deep within her mind the idea of recovering independence from Muslim rule which her Yadav forebears had lost in the year 1318. Shivaji grew up with these ideas embedded into him. His childhood stories are those of playing games in which he and his friends attacked and captured forts held by the enemy.
The Oath of Independence - at Raireshwar


When Shivaji was seventeen, he decided to transform what were till then simply games to a reality. He and his friends encouraged by Jijabai and his Guru Dadoji Kondeo; decided to take a formal oath to free the country from the shackles of Muslim tyranny. This was done in the year 1645 in a dark cavern housing a small temple to the Hindu God Shiva (locally called Raireshwar).







Here Shivaji and his select band of teenaged Maratha friends slit their thumbs and poured the blood oozing from it on the Shiva-linga (Phallus representing the Lord Shiva). By this act they declared a blood-feud against Mughal tyranny. This was the beginning of a long and arduous Maratha-Mughal struggle that went on for the next century and a half to culminate in the defeat of the Mughals and their replacement by the Marathas as the dominant power in India


Shivaji's encounter with Afzal Khan

When Shivaji started his military career by capturing the fortress of Torana, it sent shockwaves in the Adilshshi court at Bijapur. Here was a local Hindu chieftain, daring to challenge the might of a Muslim ruler. The retribution was swift and Adil Shah sent in his most fearsome general named Afzal Khan to bring back Shivaji dead or alive to Bijapur. Afzal Khan who was reputed to be more than six feet tall and of a real massive built, set on his mission and in order to lure Shivaji down into the plains, he destroyed the Hindu temples at Tuljapur, Pandharpur and Shikhar Shenganapur.

Afzal Goes Up to Pratapgad


This ploy failed to work and Shivaji stuck to his Hill fastness in the Sahyadris. Shivaji even sent a letter to Afzal Khan praising the legendary strength of Afzal Khan's powerful arms and his reputed fearlessness. Shivaji addressed him as his uncle and said that he was afraid to come down to meet Afzal Khan. Shivaji asked him to come up into the hills to meet him and on condition that Afzal Khan came with not more than few select soldiers. The proud Khan felt that the Dekkhan-Ka-Chuha (Rat of the Deccan as the Muslims scornfully addressed Shivaji) had really chickened out.



Afzal Meets his Nemesis in Shivaji


Khan-Saheb agreed to go up the hills at Pratapgad to meet his nemesis. When the meeting took place, Afzal Khan embraced Shivaji and with his diminutive enemy (Shivaji was less than five feet in height) in his grip, Afzal suddenly pulled out his dagger and tried to stab Shivaji. When Afzal's dagger could not plunge into Shivaji Maharaj due to the protective armour which Shivaji was wearing, Afzal tried to throttle him. But the wily Maratha was more than prepared for this as he had come down not only with full armour that was hidden by his thick satin robes, but he also had with him the 'Wagh Nakh' - a sharp weapon resembling tiger claws that could be hidden in the grip of one's fist. In addition, he had the Bichhwa - curved dagger hidden in the pocket of his waistcoat.

Jiwa Mahalaya

On sensing that the Khan meant to throttle him, Shivaji pierced the tiger claws deep into Khan's belly and pulled out his intestines. After which Shivaji repeatedly stabbed him with the bichhwa. The Khan bellowed "Daga" "Daga" and yelled for Syed Banda, his bodyguard to come to his rescue. When Syed Banda, also a burly Muslim was about to strike Shivaji with his sword, Shivaji's bodyguard Jiva Mahalya struck off Banda's upraised arm in the air itself.

Santaji Kawji

After this commotion, the bleeding Khan tried to make good his escape and rushed into his palanquin. As the palanquin bearers set off with the fleeing Khan, Santaji Kawji, another of Shivaji's select warriors cut-off the feet of the bearers and Khans' palanquin, with its load of Khansaab fell to the ground. Santaji Kawji, then finished off the task of sending Khan to his final resting place. Khan's army which was waiting in the valley was ruthlessly massacred by the Marathas who were hiding behind every crevice and bush in the densely wooded jungles around the Pratapgad fort. At the place where this encounter took place on 10th November 1659 between Shivaji Maharaj and the Khan, there stands today a Kabar (grave) erected by Shivaji for the departed Khan's soul to rest in peace.

Bijapur Stymied

The result of this dramatic encounter was that the Bijapur ruler panicked and after that never posed a serious threat to the growing Maratha power. The next Muslim power which Shivaji turned to was that of the Mughals. Here was the real challenge for Shivaji. The Bijapur rulers were a provincial power, while the Mughals were an power of imperial dimensions whose writ ran almost all over Northern India.

The Siege of Panhalgad

Despite this defeat, Bijapur's Adil Shah made one last attempt to check Shivaji by sending another general named Siddhi Jouhar against him. Siddhi besiged Panhalgad where Shivaji was camping. The seige went on for some months, from summer till the monsoons. But Shivaji Maharaj slipped out of Panhalgad and reached safely at Vishalgad.

The Brave Deed of Baji Prabhu Deshpande

It is during this escape that Baji Prabhu Deshpande held the pursuing enemy troops at a narrow pass called Ghod Khind. Baji Prabhu immortalized himself by laying down his life but ensured that his Master reached safely at Vishalgad. This narrow pass is today known as Pawan Khind i.e. a Holy Pass. Made holy by Baji Prabhu's memorably brave deed.

Encounter with Shaista Khan - Aurangzeb's Uncle

The next Khan to come down 'literally' before Shivaji was Shaista Khan. On hearing Shivaji's depredations, Aurangzeb was furious and wanted to desperately crush this infidel upstart. He sent his uncle maternal Shaista Khan with a large and powerful army to checkmate Shivaji.

But even this time the wily Maratha proved that brain was stronger than the brawn.

Shaista Khan came into Maharashtra and started devstating towns, villages fields, temples, forts and everything that came in his path.

Shaista Establishes his Harem in Shivaji's Devghar (Prayer Room)

To provoke Shivaji, Shaista Khan established his camp in Shivaji's home in Pune called Lal-Mahal. And to top it up, he put up his Harem in Shivaji's Devghar (prayer room).
Shaista is Lucky - He Only Loses His Fingers

Shivaji bided his time for many months and one on fine day (night), he with a select band of Maratha Samurais, sneaked into Pune and into the Lal-Mahal. He tracked down the sleeping Khan to his bed. The Khan sensing that his time was up tried jumping out of the window. At that point Shivaji cut off the Khan's fingers with which he was holding on to the window sill.

On the Khan's wife's pleading before Shivaji to spare her husband's life as she considered Shivaji to be her brother. And so killing her husband would mean making her a widow, Shivaji spared the Khan's life. This was a mistake for which Shivaji was to pay dearly later. Shivaji made good his escape from the Khan's lair, but not before the treacherous Khan ordered his troops to give chase and try to capture the fleeing Shivaji.

Shaista's Retreat from Maharashtra
The Khan however, decided that enough was enough and returned to Delhi - without his fingers. This happened in April 1663

The failure of his uncle peeved Aurang to no end and he now sent another general to subjugate Shivaji. This was Mirza Raja Jai Singh, Aurangzeb's Hindu general who was also the scion of the house of the Suryavanshi Kachhawaha's who we saw earlier had ingratiated themselves to the Mughal rulers by giving away their daughters in marriage to the Mughal Padishah. (The Moghuls incidentally never returned the favour by giving, or even offerring, their daughters to the Rajputs!). This Mirza Raja Jaisingh who came with a powerful force was smarter than Shaista Khan sent earlier by Aurangzeb. Mirzaji laid siege to Purandar alongwith a systematic loot and destruction of rural Maharashtra.

The Brave Deed of Murar Baji
When Raja Jai Singh and his general Diler Khan laid siege to the Fort of Purandar. Murar Baji was the Maratha Fort Commandant at Purandar. To break the morale of the Maratha troops, Diler Khan launched a viscious attack on the fort and laid waste the surrounding countryside. The Mughals succeeded in forcing their way into the outer defenses of Purandar.

But the Marathas were not easily intimidated, they withdrew to the inner fort (bali-killa) and kept on their attack on the besieging Mughals. One day, Murar Baji decided to rain hell on the enemy and the Marathas stormed out of the fort and fell upon the Mughals who were occupying the outer fort. In face of the Maratha attack, the Mughals broke ranks and fled to their main camp in the plains below, where Diler Khan was camping.

Seeing the ferocity of the Maratha attack, Diler Khan, decided to tempt Murar Baji with an offer of making him a general in the Mughal army if he betrayed Shivaji. When news of this offer reached Murar Baji, in the midst of the battle, his rage knew no bounds, and in a rash act he pushed into the ranks of the Mughal troops, hacking right, left and center towards Diler Khan and shouted at him that he would reply Diler's offer by cutting off his head and taking it to Shivaji Maharaj.

Murar Baji had left his own troops behind and was now surrounded by Mughal troops on all sides, but he could only see Diler, whose head he wanted. This act was brave but rash and cost Murar Baji his life. Their leader dead, the Marathas withdrew into the fort. The news of this battle and the passing away of Murar Baji and the long drawn siege along with the destruction of the countryside forced Shivaji to reach out for a compromise with Jai Singh in the interests of the sufferring population of Maharashtra.

The Treaty of Purandar
The treaty of Purandar signed between Mirza Raja Jai Singh and Shivaji Maharaj had among many conditions, one condition that Shivaji accompany Mirzaji to Agra. Shivaji decided to go to Agra in 1666.

Shivaji's Visit to Aurangzeb at Agra

At Agra, when Shivaji presented himself at the Moghul court, Aurangzeb deliberately insulted him by making him stand behind a lesser noble whom Shivaji has once defeated in battle. This was a calculated humiliation that Aurang had arranged for Shivaji. As a result Shivaji left the court in a huff. This gave Aurangzeb an excuse to declare Shivaji of having committed the offence of insulting the Mughal court.

Imprisonment of Shivaji

Aurangzeb detained Shivaji in Mirza Raja Jai Singh's house where Shivaji had put up. Shivaji seems to have read Aurangzeb's mind of having him put to death. Aurag had made plans to shift Shivaji into the proper Mughal dungeons.

Shivaji's Escape from Aurang's Clutches

Shivaji struck upon an idea and said that he wanted to make peace with God by sending fruit and sweetmeats to Brahmins and holy men. To this Aurangzeb consented. One fine day Shivaji and his son Sambhaji hid himself in two of the sizable baskets in which fruits and sweetmeats had been packed everyday and made good their escape from Aurnag's custody. In doing this Shivaji must have had in mind what had happened to his general Netaji Palkar who after being captured by the Mughals had been forced to embrace Islam and change his name to Quli Mohammed Khan. Netaji was forced to serve as a Mughal soldier in Afghanistan, till he too made good his escape and returned to Shivaji to reconvert to Hinduism and join the forces of Swaraja once again. Others were not so lucky, they were made to convert to Islam and some others were simly tortured to death - as was to happen later with Shivaji's son Shambhu Raje or Sambhaji, ater Shivaji's death.

Coronation of Shivaji as Chattrapati

After returning to the deccan, Shivaji again raised an army and recaptured all the forts that he had been made to surrender to the Mughals as per the treaty of Purandar. In this phase we see the exploits of his brave general Tanaji Malusare who perished while recapturing the invincible fort of Kondana from Uday Bhan - the renegade Rajput who was the Mughal commandant of the fort. After all the forts had been recaptured, Shivaji was pursuaded by Gaga Bhatt (a brahmin from Benaras) and his mother the ageing Jijabai to formally crown himself as the king of the Marathas. The coronation took place at Raigad on the 6th of June 1674.


Shivaji Maharaj's Seal. Shivaji Maharaj was the first Hindu King to ascend a throne after a long time. During the Dark Days of Muslim Tyranny, Shivaji Maharaj was one of the very few (along with the Ranas of Mewad), to issue his own coinage. Shivaji's coinage was in Sanskrit. The coins were in two main denominations, the Shivrai made of copper was a lower denomination coin and the Hon was a gold coin of a higher denomination. To erase the memory of Shivaji Maharaj, Aurangzeb issued an order after the passing away of Shivaji Maharaj that all Hons were to be imponded and melted. That Aurang did not succeed in erazing Shivaji Maharaj's illustruous personality from our memory is another matter

A "Nazarana" - The Daughter-in-law of the Muslim Subahdar of Kalyan

During the days after the coronation, many Maratha generals presented Nazaranas (tribute in kind) to the newly anointed King of Maharashtra. It was then a practice of the Muslims to abduct any fair maiden and to force her into the harem as a concubine. (A harem is a term for the living quarters of abducted women, nominally treated as wives.) On one such occasion, following the "illustrious" example set by the Muslim aggressors, a Maratha Sardar also (general) abducted a daughter-in-law of the Muslim Subahadar of Kalyan, near Mumbai (Kalyan was then under Mughal occupation).

This Sardar presented this "Nazarana" to Shivaji Maharaj, expecting to be patted on the back for such a "fair" tribute. Shivaji Maharaj's reaction at this occasion, gives us an insight into the mind of the person who lived 300 years before us. Shivaji not only chided the general, but warned him and all the other Maratha generals that such a heinous offence would henceforth attract a penalty of the offender's hands being chopped off. The dazed general was asked by Shivaji to return with full honours, the daughter-in-law of the Muslim Subahadar of Kalyan.

The Maratha ballads (Povadas) that describe this event say that on hearing Shivaji's dialogue in Marathi the teenaged girl is said to have exclaimed "Ya Allah, yeh aadmi nahin farishta hai. Ees farishtey pe kamyaabi bahal karna." ("O Lord, this is not an ordinary man but an angel. Bestow success on this angel.") The Maratha balladeers, while narrating this event say that "Asseech amuchi aai asatee,sundar roopavati; amhi hee sundar zhalo asato - vadaley Chattrapati" ("If my mother had been as beautiful, I too would have been as beautiful - exclaimed Chattrapati"). These dialogues might as well be a later romanticization of what actually happened. But it proves a point - Shivaji Maharaj had risen above the attitudes of religious bigotry, and beastly behaviour that had come to typify the Indian ruling class under Muslim rule.

Karnataka and Tamil Nadu Campaigns of Shivaji
After this Shivaji launched his campaign in Karnatak, which took him up to Thanjavur in Tamil Nadu. The period from 1674 up his passing away in 1680 was a relatively peaceful period, as the Mughal made no more attempts to molest the Marathas. Only after the passing away of Shivaji Maharaj did Aurang again dared to venture into Maharashtra, and then too he did not entrust the task to any general. He came himself in 1682 and stayed on in the deccan till his death in 1707.

The Marathas After Shivaji Maharaj - Sambhaji
After the passing away of their illustrious leader, the marathas fell into relative disarray. Shivaji's eldest son Sambhaji did not prove adequate to the responsibility of preserving the flame of independence to which his father had given the initial spark. Sambhaji was extremely fearless and brave. Maratha chronicles (Bakhars) refer to him as in fact more assertive and independent than his father. But in addition to all this Sambhaji also had vices like wine and women. In his eventful life, Shivaji Maharaj did not seem to have had enough time to groom his successor. Sambhaji's temper had a short fuse. During Shivaji's life-time itself, he had once quarreled with his father and had gone over to join the Mughals as one of their Mansabdars. Subsequently, he realized his folly and came back to his father and repented. But this act of his deeply hurt his father nad also displayed his chimerical nature for which he was to pay later with a painful death.

Sambhaji's Assassination

Sambhaji did not falter in battling the Mughals, as well as the Portuguese. In those days Aurnagzeb had come over to the Deccan. After subjugating the Bijapur and Golkonda kingdoms, he turned his attention on the Marathas. He carried on a ceaseless campaign against the Marathas. Sambhaji performed many daring acts in this guerrilla campaign especially in the Konkan region. But in spite of his bravery, his short temper and his vices went against him. One night, when he was passing thru Sangmeshwar with a small band of bodygaurds, he was waylaid by the Mughals and was brought in chains before Aurangzeb.

On being presented to Aurabgzeb, Sambhaji was asked to surrender all his forts, accept Islam and enter the service of the Mughal Emperor. To this affront, Sambhaji scronfully replied that he could consider this if Aurangzeb gave him his daughter in marriage and proclaimed him as the successor to the Mughal throne! On hearing this Aurang flew into a rage and decided to torture Sambhaji to death. Sambhaji's eyes were gouged, his tongue was cut off, followed by his arms and legs. Sambhaji died an inhuman death, but till the agonizing end he never recanted his faith.

Rajaram, Tarabai and Shahu
After Sambhaji's assassination, his step-brother Rajaram became the king. He was not especially brave and is said to have been physically weak. During his time Aurangzeb besieged and captured Raigad. Instead of fighting the enemy, Rajaram fled from Raigad when the fort was about to be besieged. Raigad fell into the hands of the Mughals in 1689 when a renegade Maratha called Suryaji Pisal betrayed the defences of the fort to the besieging Mughals. During the capture of Raigad, Sambhaji' wife Yesubai and his son Shahu were taken captive by the Mughals. Rajaram's life as Chattrapati was spent mostly in fleeing from the Mughal armies. Nevertheless during his times, the generals like Santaji Ghorpade and Dhanaji Jadhav carried out a whirlwind guerrilla campaign to harras the Mughal army and never let Aurangzeb rest in one place. Thus in spite of his presence in the Deccan for more than 25 years from 1680 to 1707, Aurang could not subsume the flame of independence lit by Shivaji Maharaj

Aurang's Death in 1707
When Aurang died in 1707, his son Azamshah who was with him at his deathbed, proclaimed himself the Mughal Emperor and prepared to battle his elder brother Muaazam, who was then in Kabul. To ensure that the Marathas came over to his side, Azamshah released Shahu who was till then held as a prisoner by the Mughals. Shahu had been a prisoner for 18 years from 1689 up to 1707. When Shahu staked his claim to the throne, Tarabi was ruling. A battle between the two was inevitable. This battle fought at Khed went in favour of Shahu and he became the Chattrapati. He was incidentally the last de facto Chattrapati of the Marathas.



The Spread of the Maratha Empire.
The Marathas rose to the status of Imperial Rulers of India. Their rise from freedom fighters for swarajya to the rulers of Marathi Daulat (Empire) took place from 1720 to 1761 and lasted till 1803 when they were supplanted by the British.

The Peshwas - Baji Rao, Balaji Baji Rao, Madhav Rao

As we saw above, after Shahu, the de facto executive power passed into the hands of the hereditary Prime Ministers the Peshwas. Balaji Viawanath Bhatt was succeeded by his son Baji Rao the first. Baji Rao was a very able and ambitious soldier and he was the one who consolidated Maratha power in North India.

history and the fissiparous tendencies he let loose ultimately let to the downfall of the Maratha empire.

His first mistake was to go back on the agreement between his grandfather Balaji Viswanath Bhatt and Kanhoji Angre according to which the Peshwa was to have no direct control over the Maratha Navy. He attacked the his own navy and weakened one arm of the Maratha might.

During his rule, North India was invaded by Ahmed Shah Abdali first in 1756. Balaji Baji Rao then sent his brother Raghunath Rao along with Malharrao Holkar to defeat Abdali. Raghunath rao not only defeated Abdali but chased him up to the Khyber pass till Attock in Paktoonistan. .

This success of Raghunath Rao aroused the jealousy of Balaji Baji Rao's wife Gopikabai, who started conspiring against Raghunath Rao to undermine his influence. This led to corresponding jealousy from Anandibai who was Ragunath Rao's wife. The unfortunate fallout of this court intrigue ws to end in the disastrous 3rd battle of Panipat in 1761.Let us see the event that led to this catastrophe at Panipat.

The Persian Invasion of 1740 by Nadir Shah

Some 80 years after Shivaji when the Mughal Empire had been weakened by repeated Maratha attacks, the Afghan raider Ahmed Shah Durrani (Abdali) invaded North India. As the Mughals were past their prime and were now living at the mercy of the Marathas, they did not dare oppose Ahmed Shah. The task of challenging him was left to the Marathas. The Marathas who then were on their ascendancy in North India had since the first Persian-Afghan invasion by Nadir Shah, the king of Persia in 1740, established themselves as a dominant power in Northern India. The 20 years from 1740 to 1760 saw a see-saw battle between the Afghans and the Marathas for the domination of North India.

With the defeat of Mohammed Shah, the Moghul Emperor in 1740 by Nadir Shah (in whose army Ahmed Shah Abdali was a general), the Mughal power steadily declined and its place was usurped by the Rohillas who were led by an ambitious and ruthless chieftain named Najib Khan. Najib's ambition was to supplant the Moghal Emperor and crown himself as the ruler of India by capturing Delhi.

The Marathas Liberate Punjab

But the growing power of the Marathas in their northward expansion, stood between Najib and his ambition. To overcome the Marathas, in 1755, Najib invited Ahmed Shah Abdali from Afghanistan to help him in defeating the Marathas and crown himself the ruler of India. In this, he was thwarted by the Marathas who decisively defeated the Rohillas and Afghans near Delhi in 1756. The defeat was so decisive that Najib Khan surrendered to the Marathas and became their prisoner. The Maratha forces were led by Shrimant Raghunath Rao and Malhar Rao Holkar.

After defeating the Afghan-Rohilla forces, the Marathas pursued the Afghans into the Punjab and beyond up to the Khyber pass. The last frontier of the Marathas was at Attock in today's NWFP (or Paktoonistan) on the Afghan border. (This campaign of the Marathas led by Shrimant Raghunath Rao is called as Raghu's Bharari - i.e. whirlwind campaign.

Thus after nearly 800 after the last Punjabi King Tirlochan Pal Shahi had been defeated by Mahmud of Ghazni in 1020 C.E. did that part of India come under Indian rule in 1756 due to the liberation of Punjab by the Marathas.
Meanwhile with machinations and trickery, Najib Khan won over Malhar Rao Holkar and secured his release. On his release Najib started to undermine the Marathas once again and treacherously killed Dattaji Shinde (eldest brother of Mahadji Shinde). Najib continued to battle the Shindes in 1757-58 and with his newly found confidence again invited Ahmed Shah Abdali to invade India.

PANIPAT - A Result of Court Intrigues at Pune

The court intrigues at Shaniwarwada in Pune between Gopikabai (Peshwa Balaji Baji Rao's wife) and Anandibai (Raghunath Rao's wife) led to the sidetracking of Raghunath Rao in favour of the Peshwas cousin, Sadashiv Rao Bhau (along with Viswas Rao the Peshwa's son and successor) as the Supreme commander of the Maratha forces that were to give battle to Abdali a second time. It was unfortunate for the Marathas, that due to rivalries, a successful commander like Raghunath Rao was bypassed in favour of another general.

The 3rd Battle of Panipat

When Abdali launched his second invasion in 1759 the Marathas who after their successes in 1756 had been hibernating in Maharashtra and Central India again woke up and in alliance with the Jat King Suraj Mal of Bharatpur formed an alliance. This alliance led by Shrimant Sadshiv Rao Bhau and Shrimant Vishwas Rao (the Peshwa Shrimant Balaji Baji Rao's son) won spectacular victories and captured Delhi and Kunjapura (where the Afghan treasury and armoury was located). Here the alliance developed cracks due to the Maratha insistence on not allowing the Jats to loot Delhi. This ultimately split the alliance and Suraj Mal withdrew from the alliance. The Marathas consequently marched upto Panipat, but instead of continuing their attacks to completely defeat the partly defeated Abdali and Najib Khan, they stayed put at Panipat, blocking the way of the Afghans back to Afghanistan. Seeing their way back to their homeland blocked, the Afghans now became restless. They in turn, decided to block the way of the Marathas back into the Deccan.

Stand-off for one year

This stand-off continued for one whole year from the 14th of January 1760 up to the 14th of January 1761. This led to the fall in the morale of the stranded Marathas and ultimatley led to their defeat at Panipat. The Marathi term "Sankrant Kosalali" meaing "Sankranth has befallen us" comes from this event. During this stand-off the Afghans cut-off all supplies to the huge Maratha army. The Afghans with Najib Khan meanwhile also recaptured Delhi and Kunjpura. On the decisive day of 14th January 1761 (Makar Sankranti), the Marathas decided to break-through the Afghan blockade and re-enter Deccan. The disastrous battle saw about one hundred thousand Maratha troops being slaughtered in a matter of eight hours. But the Afghans too suffered heavy losses and decided enough was enough and went back to Afghanistan never to return to India.

The defeat of the Marathas and the withdrawal of the Afghans created a power vacuum in North India in the period 1761-1790. It was this vacuum that was filled up by the rising British power. But more of this later.

Tuesday, April 24, 2012

Purandar

Purandar is about 40kms south-east of Pune and some 10kms south-west of Sasawad.  Preched on a gigantic mountain mass, its height above sea-level is 1398 metres and about 700 metres above the plain at its foot.  It really comprises two fortresses: Purandar, the stronger and more important of the two, and Vajragarh, small sister for t situated on a ridge running out east of it.  Purandar has two parts: the upper or Balekilla with precipitous sides all around and the lower part or machi about 300 metres above the plain. On the north side of the lower part there is a broad terrace comprising the cantonment area of the fortifications.  There are many monuments, old and new, on the terrace.  Towards the east of the terrace, beyond a narrow ridge, lies the fort of Vajragarh, also called Rudramal.
From the cantonment are of the terrace a winding path leads to the upper fort.  The approach is commanded by the Dilli Darwaza, the main gate.  The most important monuments, on the summit of the hill is the old temple of Kedareshwar.
The history of the Purandar fort goes back to the 13th century.  The Bahamani Sultans in the 14th century built here some walls and bastions.  From 1484 AD, for about a hundred years, the fort remained in the hands of the Nizamshahi rulers.  In 1596 AD, the fort was given as Jagir to Maloji Bhosale, grandfather of Shivaji.  However, Shivaji had to struggle very hard to establish his control over the fort in 1646 AD.  In 1665 AD, Purandar was besieged by the mighty Mughal forces under the command of Jai Singh and Dilir Khan.  In the ensuing battle Murar Baji Prabhu, the gallant commander of the fort, was killed.  Shivaji, under a treaty, had to surrender to the Mughals his 23 forts, including Purandar and Vajragarh.  At the lower fort a statue of Murar Baji Prabhu has been installed in his memory.
Purandar was recaptured by Shivaji in 1670 AD Later it became a favourite retreat of the Peshwas.  Purandar was captured by the British in 1818 AD.  During the Second World War, the British kept here the German war prisoners. Dr. H. Goetz, one of the German prisoners, thoroughly studied Purandar and wrote a monograph on it.  After Independence there also functioned a National Cadet Crops (N.C.C.) Training unit at the top.

Sindhudurg fort

Sindhudurg fort stands on a rocky island, known as Kurte, barely a km, from the Malavan is 510kms south of Mumbai and 130kms north of Goa.  Sindhudurg was built in 1664-67 AD by shivaji when all his attempts to take the island fort of Janjira proved futile.  The construction was done under the supervision of Hiroji Indulkar, an able architect.  Shivaji had invited 100 Portuguese experts from Goa for the construction of the fort.  It is also recorded that 3000 workers were employed round the clock for three years to build Sindhudurg.  It was the body from the Sack of Surat that went into the building of Sindhudurg.
One of the best preserved forts of the Marathas, the 48 acre Sindhudurg fort has a four kms long zigzag line of 9 metres high and 3 metres wide rampart with 42 bastions.  Apart from the huge stones, the building material involved 2000 khandis (72,576kgs)of iron erecting the massive curtain wall and bastions. A notable feature is that the foundation stones were laid down firmly in molten lead.
The fort is approachable from the Malavan pier by a boat through a narrow navigable channel between two smaller islands of Dhontara and Padmagad.  The main gate, flanked by massive bastions, faces the city.  On the parapet, close to the entrance, under two small domes Shivaji’s palm and footprint in dry lime are preserved.  Also, in thefort there is the Shivaji temple - the only one of its kind in the country – where the image of Shivaji is without a beard! Inside the fort there are some temples, tanks and three wells.  It also houses some twenty Hindu-Muslim hereditary families.  On a rocky island between Sindhudurg and the coast stood the small for of Padmagad, now in ruins. It acted as a screen for Sindhudurg and was also used for ship-building.
After Shivaji, Sindhudurg passed through the hands of Rajaram-Tarabai, Angres, Peshwa and the Bhosales of Kolhapur.  It was briefly captured by the British in 1765 Ad And was renamed by them as ‘Fort Augustus’.  Later in 1818 AD, the British dismantled the fort’s defence structures.

Sinhagarh fort

Sinhagarh fort, whose earlier name was Kondana or Kondhana, stands 20kms, south-west of Pune.  Perched on an isolated cliff of the Bhuleswar range of the Sahyadri Mountains, its height above sea-level is 1380 metres.  Given natural protection by its very steep slopes, the walls and bastions were constructed at only key places; it has two gates – the Kalyan Darwaza in the south-east and the Pun Darwaza in the north-east
Sinhagarh has a long history.  It was captured from theKoli tribal chieftain, Nag Naik, by Muhammad bin Tughlaq in 1328 AD.  Three centuries later, Shivaji wrested it away by bribing the commander, by the Treaty of Purandar (1665 AD) had to cede the fort to the Mughals.  Sinhagarh was the scene of one of the most daring exploits in Maratha history when, in 1670 AD, it was recaptured by Shivjaji’s forces under Tanaji Malusare, who laid down his life in the battle.  On his death, a saddened Shivaji said, “The fort is won, but the lion is gone!” Whereupon the fort got is new name:  Sinha (lion) gadha (fort).  Finally the British seized the fort from the Peshwas in 1818 AD, destroying its almost all ancient monuments.  Only the traditional gates and broken walls remain now.
The upper surface of the fort is undulating and retains few buildings, Ruins of temples, tombs and towers are scattered about.  Near the gorge is a monument (Samadhi) commemorating the bravery of Tanaji.  There is also a tiny tomb of Rajaram, Shivaji’s son, who died here in 1700 AD. Also there are few bungalows, including that of Lokamanya Tilak.
In the Maratha period Sinhagarh played the crucial role of defending Pune.  The National Defence Academy (Kharakwalsa) trains its army cadet’s right under the shadows of Sinhagrah.

Friday, April 13, 2012

Raigarh

 Raigarh 


Raigarh was Shivaji’s capital, the hill fort where he was crowned (1674 AD) and where he died (1680 AD).  Strategically situated on an irregular wedge-shaped mass of rock, detached from the main body of Sahyadri Mountains by a deep valley and inaccessible from three sides, Raigarh is 210kms south of Mumbai and 27kms north of Mahad.  The fort’s 5.12sq.kms hill-top plateau has three main points Hirakani in the west, Takamak in the north and Bhavani in the east.  There is only one pathway to Raigarh, probably in keeping with Shiviaji’s strategy “the fort’s approach should be easy for friends and impossible for foes”.  A motorable road leads to Chit Darwaja, about 2kms from Pachad, the village at the base, where lies the Samadhi of Jijabai, Shivaji’s mother.  A long climb from Pachad takes one to the Mahadarwaza, flanked by two massive bastions and a high curtain wall.
The top plateau is covered with a large number of remains of buildings and reservoirs.  Behind the Ganga Sagar reservoir are two high towers, in Muslim style.  Behind the towers is the Balekilla or citadel, entered by the Palakhi-darwaza.  On way to the right are remains of chambers of women of Royal families and on the left those of the Darbar of Shivaji.  On a low mound in the centre is the site of Shivaji’s throne.  Further north is the two-row market place, the Jagadishwar temple in an enclosure and the Samadhi of shivaji, and also that of his favourite dog, Waghya.
The history of Raigarh, earlier known as Rairi, is obscure.  In the 12th century Rairi was a seat of the Shirke-Palegar family.  After changing several hands, it was captured by Shivaji from Chandrarao More in 1656 AD.  Shivaji chose Rairi for his capital and renamed it as Raigarh.  The gigantic construction work was entrusted to Abaji Sondeve and Hiroji Indulkar.  In its heyday Raigarh had more than 300 houses, and structures.  After Shivaji, the fort remained in the hands of Sambhaji till 1689 AD, when it was captured by the Mughals.  Reverted to the Marathas in 1735 AD, Raigarh was surrendered to the British in 1818 AD.

Pratapgad


Pratapgad


Shri Shivaji Maharaj had extended his kingdom on the banks of rivers Nira and Koyana. In order to safeguard this area of his kingdom, he felt need to have a well-built fort. This fort is called Pratapgad. As per the records in the history, Pratapgad was built in the year 1657. Pratapgad is situated at 8 kilometres, west of Mahabaleshwar, in Jawali taluka of North Satara district. The fort is built on the mound named Deparya, between Par and Kineshwar towns.
On way from Mahabaleshwar to Mahad, there is a place called Kumroshi. From there, it is a journey of half an hour. It is difficult to climb fort. The fort is situated in the area called Jawali forest. Renowned poet Govind described the environments around fort Pratapgad in very lucid words.

Places of interest on Pratapgad

There is pathway on the left side of the bottom of fort. The plaque shows way to Darga Sharif. This is place where tomb of Afzalkahn is situated. This fort has only one main door. Below it there is a stream which carries rain water from upstream down the slope. It is possible to reach the door after climbing few steps. There are bastions inside this door which were used by soldiers guarding the main door. This bastion can be seen by going around in 3/4th of the circle.
As per historical when Shri Shivaji Maharaj assassinated Afzalkhan after being betrayed by him, his head wad buried under this bastion by Sambhaji Kavaji, a masculine lieutenant of Shivaji Maharaj. When a window of Nagarkhana (A place where drums are placed and played) is opened one can see the face of Goddess’s idol.  A story goes around about this Goddess that, Shri Shivaji Maharaj had started a ritual of playing Sanai-Chaughada (A type of religious band) before the Goddess. A priest with Hadap as a surname was deputed to offer Naivedya (food offered to the Deity as part of ritualistic worship) and Panchamrut (a mixture of milk, curd, honey, sugar and pure ghee). This temple of Goddess Bhavani includes Sabhamandap ( A hall in front of sanctum sanctorum) and Nagarkhana.
After climbing 100-200 steps from temple, there is a small door, which is a entrance to the fort. In front, there is quadrangular terrace. From the aerial view, Pratapgad fort resembles a butterfly. Its length is1400 feet and width is 400 feet. It has a unique fortification. The North-western precipices are more than 800 feet in height. There are two water tanks on North-eastern side of the fort. From here one can get panoramic view of Koyna basin. This ends the round trip of the fort.

History

In the year 1657 Shri Shivaji Maharaj became too powerful to be tolerated, for the rulers of Vijapur. His strength was on rise. He used to conquer new provinces of Vijapur kingdom from time to time. To restrain Shri Shivaji Maharaj, Afzalkhan was deputed, but Shri Shivaji Maharaj tactfully assassinated him. This incident is recorded in the history in great details. The tomb of Afzalkhan still exists there. It is built at levelled ground on the third stage of down slope amid trees. Pratapgad fort is famous for beauty of nature in and around it.
The second most important aspect of Pratapgad is the assassination of Afzalkhan. When Afzalkhan called Shri Shivaji Maharaj  to meet him at the bottom of the fort, he tried to kill Shri Shivaji Maharaj by way of treachery. Shri Shivaji Maharaj assassinated him by removing his intestines after cutting open his stomach. A bodyguard of Afzalkhan, Sayyad Banda tried to kill Shri Shivaji Maharaj by brandishing his sword. But the security man of Shri Shivaji Maharaj, Jiva Banda was vigilant enough to thwart this attempt and killed Sayyad Banda. So the phrase “ It was Jiva, who saved Shiva” was coined and became immortal in the history of this fort. The army of Shri Shivaji Maharaj which was hiding   in the jungles of Jawali made 1500 soldiers of Afzalkhan run helter-skelter. Thus the existence of this fort  is testimony to the bravery of Shri Shivaji Maharaj.

How to reach

There are two routes to reach Pratapgad fort. One is via Mahad-Poladpur and other one via Wai-Mahabaleshwar. A small hamlet namely Kumbhareshi or Vad can be reached from either side. On South-east side there is a village called Par. The way passing between these two places takes one to Pratapgad fort.

Shivneri

  
 

Shivneri

Shivneri fort is birthplace of Shri Shivaji Maharaj. It is situated near Junnar town in the district of Pune, about 105 Kilometres from Pune.
This fort is surrounded by steep upwards slopes from all four sides and is unassailable. There is small t temple of Goddess Shivai and idols of Jijabai          ( Mother of Shri Shiv aji) and Shri Shivaji in his childhood. The shape of this fort is like Shiv-Pind (Shiva's sacred symbol; Divine Phallus). Shivneri fort is visible as soon as you enter Junnar town. This fort is not that big in area. Dr. John Friar of East India Company visited this fort in 1673. He has mentioned in his book that, this fort can hoard sufficient food to meet the needs of one thousand families enough to last for 7years.

HISTORY

The present day Junnar was known as Jirna-nagar, Junner and existed prior to beginning of year AD. Junnar was capital of King Nahapan from Shak dynasty. The Satvahan king Satkarni, a son of Gautami, wiped out Shakas and held dominance over Junnar and its surrounding area. Naneghat was commercial route in olden times. Lot of traffic used to pass on this route. To supervise this traffic the fort was built on this route. After Satvahan rule stabilised, they excavated many caves. After Satvahan, Shivneri fort came under the control of Chalukya of Rashtrakut Empire. Yadavas established their rule between 1170 to 1308. During this tenure Shivneri was built as a fort. In 1443 Malik Ul Tujar defeated Yadavas and conquered the fort. Thus the fort came under the control of Bahamani Empire. In 1470 Malik Mahammad, representative of Malik Ul Tujar, surrounded and conquered it again. In 1446 Nizamshahi was established after the death of Malik Mahammad.
In 1493 AD the capital was shifted from this fort to Ahamadnagar. In 1565 Sultan Murtija Nizam held his brother Kasim as captive on this fort. In 1595 this fort and area surrounding it came under the control of Maloji Raje Bhosale. When Jijanata was pregnant, she was shifted to Shivneri fort during night under protection of 500 strong cavalry. Jijamata made took a vow before  Goddess Bhavani Shivai on Shivneri fort, that if she begets son she will name him after Goddess. Shri Shivaji Raje was born on 19th February 1630. He left the fort accompanied by his mother in 1632. The fort went under the control of Mughals in 1637. Fishermen rebelled against Mughals in 1650, but Mughals won the battle. In 1673, Shri Shivaji Maharaj made unsuccessful attempt conquer the fort by winning over the fort chieftain Ajijkhan and surrounding the fort. In the year 1678, the Junnar area was pillaged and Maratha army made unsuccessful attempt to capture the fort. After the gap of 40 years, in 1716  Shahu Maharaj brought the fort under the control of Maratha Empire and thereafter it was handed over to Peshvas.

PLACES OF INTEREST IN FORT

* Temple of Goddess Shivai

While coming on fort via Seven Doors, if one turns left from main road after crossing the fifth door called Shipai Darvaja, you reach to temple of Goddess Shivai. There are 6-7 caves in the rock behind this temple. These caves are not suitable for overnight stay. There is idol of Goddess Shivai in temple.

* Ambarkhana

After the entry in the fort from last door, Ambarkhana can be seen at the front. It has undergone lot of damage. Earlier it was used to store food grains. There are two lanes emerging from Ambarkhana. One goes to mound in the front, on which a there is a mosque. The other one goes to Shivkunj.

* Water Tank

On the way there are many water tanks namely Ganga, Yamina, etc.

* Shivkunj

This is a memorial of Shri Shivaji Maharaj on Shivneri fort. Its foundation was laid by first Chief Minister of Maharashtra Shri Yashavantrao Chavan, and it was inaugurated also by him. Bal Shivaji ( Shivaji in his childhood) rotating his small sword and describing his dreams to his mother Jijamata, is the theme of this memorial laid in Shivkunj. There is a mosque in front of Shivkunj and a water tank below it. If one walks little in front there is a Hamamkhana (bath room).

 * Place of birth of Shri Shivaji Maharaj

In front of Shivkunj there is building where Shri Shivaji Maharaj was born. This is a two story building, on ground floor of which Shri Shivaji Maharaj was born. A statue of Shri Shivaji Maharaj is installed there. In front of this building there is water tank namely Badami.

 * Kadelot Kada

The road going from the front of above place leads to Kadelot Kada ( A precipice from where a person was killed by hurling down). This sheer drop was used to award punishment to criminals.

Roads to reach Shivneri fort

Both the main roads leading to the fort go through Junnar town only. Visitors from Mumbai and Pune can come to visit the fort and return within a day.

a) Sakhali Road

While taking this route, one has to come to the statue of Shri Shivaji Maharaj installed in front of new Bus stand after entering Junnar town. The way on left hand side of this square leads to a temple about a kilometre away. A trodden lane in front of this temple leads to steep cliff of Shivneri fort. One has to climb the fort with the help of iron chain and steps hollowed out in the steep vertical rock. This route is little difficult and takes around 3/4th of an hour.

b) Route through Seven Doors

If one continues on left hand side, a tar road leads one to the steps at the bottom of fort. While taking this route one comes across seven doors. These are serially called Mahadar Door, Pir Door, Parvangi (Permission) Door, Hatti ( Elephant) Door, Shipai ( Soldier) Door, Phatak ( Gate) Door, and Kulabkar Door as one climbs up. It takes around one and half hour to reach fort.

How to reach Junnar

After one crosses Malshej Ghat on Kalyan-Nagar road, there is a road sign after a distance of 8 to 9 kilometres, indicating that Shivneri fort is 19 kilometres away. This road goes to Shivneri fort via Ganesh Khind (pass). It takes one day to reach fort by foot.

रोहीडा


 रोहीडा 


सह्याद्रीच्या डोंगररांगेत भोर ते महाबळेश्र्वर असा एक सुरेख डोंगरमार्ग आहे. या डोंगररांगेत ३ ते ४ किल्ले आहेत. यापैकी एक रोहीड खो-यात वसलेला किल्ला म्हणजेच 'किल्ले रोहीडा'. रोहीडखोरे हे नीरा नदीच्या खो-याच्या काही भागात वसलेले आहे. या खो-यात ४२ गावे होती. त्यापैकी ४१ गावे सध्याच्या पुणे जिल्ह्याच्या भोर तालुक्यात मोडतात. रोहीडा किल्ला हे रोहीड खो-याचे प्रमुख ठिकाण होते. पुणे सातारा जिल्ह्यातील सहकारी साखर कारखाने, सहकारी दूधयोजना यामुळे येथील परिसरातील बहुतेक सर्व गावापर्यंत बस, वीज आदी सुविधा पोहचल्या आहेत. त्यामुळे येथील जीवन सुखी झालेले आहे. रोहीडा किल्ला भोरच्या दक्षिणेस सुमारे ६ मैलांवर आहे. रोहीडा किल्ल्याला विचित्रगड किंवा बिनीचा किल्ला असे देखील संबोधले जाते.
इतिहास 
 
           या किल्ल्याची निर्मिती ही यादवकालीन आहे. या किल्ल्यावरील तीस-या दरवाजावर असणा-या शिलालेखावरून मुहम्मद आदिलशहाने ह्या गडाची  दुरुस्ती केली असे अनुमान निघते. या शिलालेखावरून मे १६५६ नंतर हा किल्ला शिवाजी महाराजांनी बांदल देशमुखांकडून घेतला असे समजते. किल्ला घेण्यासाठी राजांना बांदल देशमुखांशी हातघाईची लढाई करावी लागली. यात कृष्णाजी बांदल मारला गेला. बाजीप्रभू देशपांडे बांदलाचे मुख्य कारभारी होते. लढाईंतर बाजीप्रभू देशपांडे व इतर सहका-यांना स्वराज्यात सामील करून घेतले गेले. इ.स. १६६६ च्या पुरंदरच्या तहानुसार हा किल्ला मोघलांच्या स्वाधीन केला गेला. २४ जून १६७० रोजी शिवरायांनी किल्ला परत घेतला.कान्होजी यांच्याकडे भोरची पूर्ण तर रोहीडा किल्ल्याची निम्मी देशमुखी व जमिनीचे काही तुकडे इनाम होते. रोहीडाचे गडकरी त्यांचेकडून ३० होन घेत होते. शिवाजी महाराजांच्या अधिका-यांनी शिवाजी महाराजांकडे विचारणा केली की ३० च होन का, शिवाजी महाराजांनी निर्णय दिला की, जेधे आपले चाकर असल्यामुळे पूर्वापार चालत आलेले द्रव्यच घ्यावे. पुढे किल्ला मोघलांनी जिंकला, मात्र भोरच्या पंत सचिवांनी औरंगजेबाशी झुंजून किल्ला स्वराज्यात पुन्हा दाखल केला. संस्थाने विलीन होईपर्यंत राजगड, तोरणा, तुंग आणि तिकोना किल्ल्याप्रमाणे हा ही किल्ला भोरकरांकडे होता.

गडावरील पहाण्यासारखी ठिकाणे 
              पहिल्या दरवाज्याच्या चौकटीवर गणेशपट्टी आणि वर मिहराब आहे. पुढे १५ ते २० पायया पार केल्यावर दुसरा दरवाजा लागतो. येथून आत गेल्यावर समोरच पाण्याचे भुयारी टाके आहे. याचे पाणी बाराही महिने पुरते. येथून ५-७ पाय-या चढून गेल्यावर तिसरा दरवाजा लागतो. हा दरवाजा अतिशय भक्कम आहे. यावर ब-याच प्रमाणात कोरीव काम आढळते. दोनही बाजूंस हत्तीचे शिर कोरण्यात आले आहे. तसेच डाव्या बाजूला मराठी व उजव्या बाजूला फारसी शिलालेख आहे. आजुबाजूच्या तटबंदीची पडझड झाली आहे. ह्या सर्व दरवाजांची रचना एकमेकांना काटकोनात आहे. येथून आत शिरल्यावर समोरच २ वास्तू दिसतात.एक गडावरील सदर असावी तर दुसरे किल्लेदाराचे घर असावे. डाव्या बाजूला थोडे अंतर चालून गेल्यावर रोहिडमल्ल उर्फ भैराबाचे मंदिर लागते. मंदिरासमोर लहानसे टाके, दीपमाळ व चौकोनी थडगी आहेत. देवळात गणपती, भैरव व भैरवी यांच्या मूर्ती आहेत. रोहीडाचा घेर तसा लहानच आहे. किल्ल्याच्या आग्रेयेस शिरवले बुरूज, पश्चिमेस पाटणे बुरूज व दामगुडे बुरूज, उत्तरेस वाघजाईचा बुरूज व पूर्वेस फत्ते बुरूज व सदरेचा बुरूज असे एकूण ६ बुरूज आहेत. गडाची तटबंदी व बुरुजांचे बांधकाम अजूनही मजबूत आहेत. गडाच्या उत्तरेकडील भागात टाक्यांची सलग रांग आहे. येथेच एक भूमिगत पाण्याचे टाके आहे. तेथेच मानवी मूर्ती व शिवपिंडी आहे. संपूर्ण गड फिरण्यास दीड तास पुरतो.

गडावर जाण्याच्या वाटा
 
बाजारवाडी मार्गेः  दक्षिणेस ८-१० किमी अंतरावर बाजारवाडी नावाचे गाव आहे. बाजारवाडीपर्यंत जाण्यासाठी एसटी सेवा उपलब्ध आहे. बाजारवाडीपासून मळलेली वाट गडाच्या पहिल्या दरवाजापाशी घेऊन जाते. वाट अत्यंत सोपी असून दरवाजापर्यंत पोहचण्यास एक तास लागतो.अंबवडे मार्गेभोर ते अंबवडे अशी एसटी सेवा उपलब्धआहे.पूणे-भोर-पानवळ-अंबवडे अशी बससेवा देखील उपलब्ध आहे. या गाडीने अंबवडे गावी उतरून गावाच्या पूर्वेकडील दांडावरून गड चढण्यास सुरुवात करावी. ही वाट लांबची आणि निसरडी आहे. या वाटेने गड गाठण्यास सुमारे अडीच तास पुरतात.शक्यतो गडावर जाताना बाजारवाडी मार्गेजावे आणि उतरताना नाझरे किंवा अंबवडे मार्गेउतरावे म्हणजे रायरेश्र्वराकडे जाण्यास सोपे जाते.
रोहीडा ते रायरेश्र्वर वाटा
 
१. भोर - कारी बसने कारी गावात उतरावे. तिथून लोहदरा मार्गे२ तासांत रायरेश्र्वर पठाराकडे पोहचतो व पठारावरील वस्ती पर्यंत जाण्यास दीड तास लागतो.
२. वडतुंबी मार्गे- दुपारची (२.४५) भोर-टिटेघर गाडी आंबवण्यास येते. तिने वडतुंबी फाटावर उतरावे. तिथून १५ मिनिटांत वडतुंबी गाव गाठणे. येथून साधारणतः २ तासात गणेशदरा मार्गेरायरेश्र्वर पठारावर पोहचता येते.
३. भोर-कोर्लेगाडीने कोर्लेगावात उतरावे. रात्री उशीर झाल्यास गावात मुक्काम करून पहाटे गायदरा मार्गाने ३ तासात रायरेश्र्वर पठारावरील देवळात जाता येते.
४. भोर-दाबेकेघर बसने दाबेकेघरला उतरायचं व तिथून धानवली पर्यंत चालत जायचं. पुढे वाघदरामार्गे३ तासात रायरेश्र्वर गाठायचं.
 
राहण्याची सोय : रोहीडमल्लच्या मंदिरात ५ ते ७ जणांची रहाण्याची सोय होते. पावसाळ्यात मात्र मंदिरात रहाता येत नाही.
जेवणाची सोय : जेवणाची सोय आपण स्वतःच करावी.पाण्याची सोय : गडावर पिण्याचे पाणी बारमाही उपलब्ध आहे.
जाण्यासाठी लागणारा वेळ : बाजारवाडी मार्गे- १ तास

Tuesday, April 10, 2012

सुवर्णदुर्ग

सुवर्णदुर्ग
 

हर्णे बंदर प्राचीन काळापासून प्रसिद्ध आहे. सुवर्णदुर्ग या जलदुर्गामुळे हर्णे बंदराला ऐतिहासिक महत्त्वही प्राप्त झालेले आहे. सुवर्णदुर्ग किल्ल्याच्या रक्षणासाठी हर्णेच्या सागरी किनाऱ्यावर तीन किनारी किल्ल्यांची उभारणी करण्यात आलेली आहे. ते तीन दुर्ग म्हणजे कनकदुर्ग, फत्तेदुर्ग आणि गोवागड
दुर्गाचे प्रवेशद्वार पूर्व दिशेला असून उत्तराभिमुख आहे. हे प्रशस्त प्रवेशद्वार शिवाजी महाराजांनी बांधून घेतले आहे असे म्हणतात.
उजव्या बाजूला तटबंदीवर हनुमानाची मूर्ती कोरलेली आहे. प्रवेशद्वारातून आत शिरताच पहारेकर्‍यांच्या दोन देवड्या दिसतात. या देवड्यांच्या दोन्ही बाजूने तटबंदीवर जाण्यासाठी दगडी पायऱ्या आहेत.किल्ल्यात दक्षिणेकडे भक्कम बांधणीचे एक कोठार आहेबांधीव विहीर आणि पुढे राजवाड्याचे दगडी चौथरे आहेत.
दुर्गाच्या पश्चिम तटाकडे एक सुरेख चोरदरवाजा आजही सुस्थितीत असलेला दिसतो. गडावर सात विहिरी आहेत, पण कुठेही मंदिर नाही.
प्रसिद्ध दर्यासारंग कान्होजी आंग्रे यांची कुलदेवता कालंबिका देवी हिचे इथले देऊळ कान्होजीने केव्हातरी सुवर्णदुर्गावरून हलवून देवीची स्थापना अलिबागच्या हिराकोटामध्ये केली होती.
मुंबई गोवा महामार्गावर असणार्‍या खेड फाट्यावरून दापोली आणि पुढे दापोलीहून बसने हर्णेला जाण्यासाठी बससेवा आहे. हर्णे बस स्थानकावरून साधारण १०-१५ मिनिटांत पायी हर्णे बंदर गाठता येते.

बंदरावरून किल्ल्यात जाण्यासाठी स्थानिक मच्छीमार संघटनेने छोटे पडाव ठेवले आहेत. होडीतून सुवर्णदुर्गावर जाण्यासाठी साधारण २० मिनिटे लागतात. ऐन सागराच्या कुशीत वसलेल्या या जलदुर्गावर आज पिण्याचे पाणी उपलब्ध नसल्याने सोबत पाणी घेऊन जावे.

पद्मदुर्ग

पद्मदुर्ग


 
          कासा उर्फ पद्मदुर्ग हा जलदुर्ग आहे. छत्रपती शिवाजी महाराजांनी बांधलेला कासा किल्ला मुरुड गावा जवळील समुद्रात आहे. मुरुड हे गाव तालुक्याचे असून ते रायगड जिल्ह्यामध्ये आहे. मुरुड हे जंजिरा या जलदुर्गामुळे प्रसिध्दच आहे. या मुरुड गावाजवळ जंजिरा, सामराजगड आणि कासा उर्फ पद्मदुर्ग असे किल्ले आहेत.

          मुरुडला जाण्यासाठी अलिबाग रेवदंडा मुरुड असा एक गाडी मार्ग आहे. मुंबई-पणजी महामार्गावरील नागोठणे अथवा कोलाड येथून रोहे गाठावे रोह-चणेरे बिरवाडी मार्गे मुरुडला जाता येते. तसेच मुंबई-पणजी महामार्गावरील इंदापूर येथून तळा-भालगाव मार्गेही मुरुड गाठता येते.

          मुरुड गावातून राजपुरीकडे जाणारा गाडी रस्ता आहे. या रस्त्यावरच्या खाडीलगत एकदरा गाव आहे. याच्या किनार्‍यावर अनेक मच्छीमारी नावा उभ्या असतात. या मच्छीमारी नौकावाल्याकडे चौकशी केल्यास यातील एखादी नौका आपल्याला कासा किल्ल्याकडे घेवून जावू शकते आपण संख्येने जास्त असल्यास फारसा आर्थिक भार पडत नाही. सागराची आणि हवामानाची परिस्थिती पाहूनच हे मच्छीमार कासाकडे येण्यासाठी तयार होतात. आपण आगावू चौकशी करुन किंवा आदल्या दिवशी जर नौका ठरवली तर वेळेची बचत होऊन गैरसोय टळू शकते.

          जवळ असलेल्या जंजिरा किल्ल्याच्या सहाय्याने सिद्दी अतिशय प्रबळ झाला होता. त्याच्या आरमारी सामर्थ्याने त्याने किनारपट्टीवर धाक जमवला होता. सामान्य रयतेची पिळवणूक होत होती. त्यामुळे सिद्दीच्या अत्याचाराला पायबंद घालण्यासाठी शिवाजी राजांनी मुरुडच्या सागरात असलेल्या कासवाच्या आकाराच्या बेटावर किल्ला बांधण्याचा निर्णय घेतला. त्यानुसार कासा उर्फ पद्मदुर्ग हा जलदुर्ग बांधला. त्याबद्दल महाराजांनी उद्गार काढले, पद्मदुर्ग वसवून राजापुरीच्या (जंजिरा) उरावरी दुसरी राजापुरी उभी केली आहे. कासा किल्ल्यामुळे जंजिर्‍याच्या सिद्दीला चांगलाच पायबंद बसला.

          एकदण्यापासून किंवा राजापूरीपासून नावेने तासाभरात आपण कासा किल्ल्याला पोहोचतो. कासा किल्ल्याचे दोन भाग आहेत. एक मुख्य किल्ला आणि त्यासमोरील पडकोट. पडकोट मोठय़ा प्रमाणावर नामशेष होत आला आहे परंतु मुख्य किल्ल्याची तटबंदी मात्र अजूनही उत्तमपैकी शाबूत आहे. मुख्य दारासमोरील मोठा बुरुज तग धरुन उभा आहे. या बुरुजाच्या चर्चा कमळाच्या पाकळ्याप्रमाणे फुललेल्या आकाराच्या आहेत. म्हणूनच याला पद्मदुर्ग असे नाव दिले गेले असावे.

          कासा उर्फ पद्मदुर्ग किल्ल्याच्या बांधकामाचे एक वैशिष्ठ येथे पहावयाला मिळते. तटबंदीच्या दोन दगडांमधे सिमेंटिंग म्हणून चुना वापरलेला आह. गेल्या साडेतीनशे वर्षामधे सागराच्या लाटांच्या तडाख्याने आणि खार्‍या पाण्यामुळे तटबंदीचा दगड झिजून गेला आहे. या दगडाची झीज पाच ते दहा से.मी.एवढी झाली आहे. तरीही दोन दगडांमधला चुना अजूनही शाबूत आहे. शिवकालीन बांधकामाचे हे वैशिष्ट्य आपल्याला चकित करते. पडकोटामधील चौकोनी विहीर, तोफा, इमारतींचे अवशेष असे पाहून आपण मुख्य किल्ल्याकडे निघायचे पडकोट आणि मुख्य किल्ला या मधील खडकावर समुद्रामधून वाहून आलेल्या शंख शिंपल्यांचा ढीग साचलेला आहे.

          कासा किल्ल्याच्या महाद्वारामध्ये प्रवेश करण्यासाठी चार पाच पायर्‍या चढाव्या लागतात. दाराच्या आतल्या बाजूला पहारेकर्‍याच्यासाठी केलेल्या देवडय़ा आहेत. किल्ल्याच्या तटावर जाण्यासाठी पायर्‍यांचा मार्गही आहे. मधल्या भागामधे नव्या जुन्या वास्तूंचे अवशेष पहायला मिळतात. काही काळ भारतातील कस्टम ऑफिसचे एक कार्यालय येथे थाटलेले होते. हे चौकीवजा कार्यालय येथून हलल्यावर या सगळ्या वास्तूचा ताबा निसर्गाकडे आला त्यामुळे सगळ्या वास्तूंची रयाच गेलेली दिसते. चारही बाजुंनी खारे पाणी असताना आतमधे गोडय़ा पाण्याची चार टाकी केलेली दिसतात.

          किल्ल्याचा दर्या दरवाजा आणि त्याचे स्थापत्य पाहून परत फिरायचे. तटबंदीवरुन जंजिरा आणि सामराजगड किल्ले दिसतात. मुरुडचा किनाराही उत्तम दिसतो

लोहगड

लोहगड

 





पवनामावळात असणारा आणि लोणावळा (बोर) घाटाचाक संरक्षक असणारा हा लोहगड पुणे - मुंबई हमरस्त्यावरून सहजच नजरेस पडतो. पुण्या आणि मुंबईपासून जवळ असल्या कारणाने येथे ट्रेकर्स मंडळींची नेहमीच ये जा चालू असते. किल्ल्याच्या पोटात भाजे आणि बेडसे या प्रसिध्द लेण्या आहेत.. मुंबई - पुणे रेल्वेमार्गावरील मळवली स्टेशनवर उतरून आपण किल्ल्याकडे जाऊ शकतो. महामार्गापासून जवळच असल्याने पायथ्याच्या गावात सर्व सुखसुविधा आहेत.
इतिहास
           लोहगड किल्ला हा अति मजबूत, बुलंद आणि दुर्जेय आहे. किल्ल्याची निर्मिती जवळ असणारी भाजे आणि बेडसे ही बौद्धकालीन लेणी ज्या काळी निर्माण झाली, त्याही पूर्वी म्हणजेच सत्तावीशसे वर्षांपूर्वी झालेली असावी असे अनुमान निघते. सातवाहन, चालुक्य, राष्ट्रकूट, यादव या सर्व राजवटी या किल्ल्याने पाहिल्या.इ. स. १४८९ मध्ये मलिक अहमंदने निजामशाहीची स्थापना केली आणि अनेक किल्ले जिंकून घेतले. त्यापैकीच लोहगड हा एक. इ. स. १५६४ मध्ये अहमदनगरचा सातवा राजा दुसरा बुर्हाण निजाम या किल्ल्यावर कैदेत होता. इ. स. १६३० मध्ये किल्ला आदिलशाहीत आला. १६५७ मध्ये शिवाजी महाराजांनी कल्याण आणि भिवंडी परिसर जिंकून घेतला आणि लोहगड - विसापूर हा सर्व परिसर सुद्धा स्वराज्यात सामील करून घेतला. इ. स. १६६५ मध्ये झालेल्या पुरंदरच्या तहात हा किल्ला मोगलांच्या स्वाधीन केला गेला. पुढे १३ मे १६७० मध्ये मराठांनी किल्ला परत जिंकला. पहिल्या सुरत लूटेच्या वेळेस आणलेली संपत्ती नेताजी पालकरने लोहगडावर आणून ठेवली होती. इ. स. १७१३ मध्ये शाहूमहाराजांनी कृपावंत होऊन लोहगड कान्होजी आंग्रे यांस दिला.
              १७२० मध्ये आंगर्यांकडून तो पेशव्यांकडे आला. १७७० मध्ये नाना फडणवीसांचा सरदार जावजी बोंबले याने तो आपल्या ताब्यात घेतला. नानांनी पुढे धोंडोपंत नित्सुरे यांच्याकडे किल्ल्याचा कारभार सोपवला.इ. स. १७८९ मध्ये नानांनी किल्ल्याचे बांधकाम आणखीन मजबूत करून घेतले. किल्ल्यात नानांनी सोळा कान असलेली एक बाव बांधली व तिच्या बाजूस एक शिलालेख कोरला, त्याचा अर्थ असा-शके १७११ मध्ये बाळाजी जनार्दन भानू - नाना फडणवीस यांनी ही बाव धोंडो बल्लाळ नित्सुरे यांच्या देखरेखीखाली बाजीचट याचेकडून बांधिवली. नानांनी आपले सर्व द्रव्य नित्सुर्यांचे निगराणीत लोहगडावर आणले. १८०० मध्ये नित्सुर्यांचा कैलासवास झाला. १८०२ मध्ये त्यांच्या पत्नी किल्ल्यावर येऊन राहिल्या. १८०३ मध्ये किल्ला इंग्रजांनी घेतला. पण नंतर दुसर्या बाजीरावाने तो पुन्हा जिंकला. ४ मार्च १८१८ ला जनरल प्रॉथर लोहगड जिंकण्यासाठी आला. त्याने सर्व प्रथम विसापूर जिंकला. ज्या दिवशी विसापूर इंग्रजांनी घेतला त्याच्या दुसर्याच दिवशी मराठे लोहगड सोडून गेले.

गडावरील पहाण्यासारखी ठिकाणे

गडावर चढतांना आपल्याला सलग चार प्रवेशद्वारांमधून आणि सर्पाकार मार्गावरून जावे लागते. सर्वप्रथम
१. गणेश दरवाजाः-  ह्याच्याच डाव्या - उजव्या बुरुजाखाली सावळे कुटुंबाचा नरबळी देण्यात आला होता आणि त्याच्या बदल्यात त्यांच्या वंशजांना लोहगडवाडीचीपाटिलकी देण्यात आली होती.येथे आतील बाजूस शिलालेख आहेत.

२. नारायण दरवाजाः- हा दरवाजा नाना फडणीसांनी बांधला. येथे एक भुयार आहे, जिथे भात व नाचणी साठवून ठेवण्यात येई.

३. हनुमान दरवाजाः- हा सर्वात प्राचीन दरवाजा आहे.

४. महादरवाजाः- हा गडाचा मुख्य दरवाजा आहे. यावर हनुमानाची मूर्ती कोरली आहे. ह्या दरवाज्यांचे काम नाना फडणीसांनी १ नोव्हेंबर १७९० ते ११ जून १७९४ या कालावधीत केले.महादरवाज्यातून आत शिरताच एक दर्गा लागतो. दर्ग्याच्या शेजारी सदर व लोहारखानाचे भग्र अवशेष आढळतात. याच दर्ग्याच्या बाहेर बांधकामाचा चुना बनविण्याचा घाणा आहे.उजवीकडे ध्वजस्तंभ आहे.याच्या जवळच एक तोफ काही हौश दुर्गप्रेमींनी सिंमेटच्या चौथ-यात बसवलेली आहे.अशीच एक तोफ तुटलेल्या अवस्थेत लक्ष्मीकोठीच्या समोर पडलेली आहे. ध्वजस्तंभाच्या उजवीकडे चालत गेल्यास लक्ष्मी कोठी आढळते. या कोठीत राहाण्याची सोय होते.या कोठीत अनेक खोल्या आढळतात.दर्ग्याच्या पुढे थोडे उजवीकडे गेल्यास थोडा उंचवटयाचा भाग आहे , जिथे एक सुंदर शिवमंदिर आढळते.पुढे सरळ चालत गेल्यावर एक छोटेसे तळे आहे.हे तळ अष्टकोनी आहे. त्याच्याच बाजूला पिण्याच्या पाण्याचे टाके देखील आहे.ही गडावरील पिण्याच्या पाण्याची एकमेव सोय आहे.
                तिथून पुढे पंधरा ते वीस मिनिटे चालत गेल्यास एक मोठे तळे आढळते.नाना फडणवीसांनी या तळ्याची बांधणी केली आहे.हे तळं सोळाकोनी आहे.मोठा तळ्याच्या पुढे विंचुकाटाकडे जातांना वाडांचे काही अवशेष दिसतात. लक्ष्मी कोठीच्या पश्चिमेस विंचूकाटा आहे. या विंचूकाटास बघून आपल्याला आठवण येते ती म्हणजे राजगडाच्या संजीवनी माचीची. पंधराशे मीटर लांब आणि तीस मीटर रुंद अशी ही डोंगराची सोंड आहे. विंचुकाटयावर जाण्यासाठी एक टप्पा उतरून पलीकडे जावे लागते . गडावरून पाहिले असता हा भाग विंचवाच्या नांगीसारखा दिसतो,म्हणून यांस विंचूकाटा म्हणतात.या भागात पाण्याची उत्तम सोय आढळते. गडाच्या आजुबाजूचा परिसर न्याहाळण्यासाठी या विंचूकाटा चा उपयोग होत असावा. या गडावरून येतांना भाजे गावातील भाजे लेण्या आवर्जून पाहव्यात.पावसाळ्यातील लोहगडाचे रुप पाहिले की मनोन्मनी गुणगुणतं...। ओल्या पानातल्या रेषा वाचतात ओले पक्षी। आणि पोपटी रंगाची रान दाखविते नक्षी ॥

गडावर जाण्याच्या वाटा

लोहगडावर जाण्यासाठी तीन वाटा आहेत.
१) पूण्यावरून अथवा मुंबईवरून येतांना लोणावळ्याच्या पुढे असणा-या मळवली स्थानकावर उतरावे.तेथून एक्स्प्रेस हायवे पार करून भाजे गावातून थेट लोहगडला जाणरी वाट पकडावी.वाट मोठी आणि प्रशस्त आहे.तिथून दीड तासांच्या चालीनंतर 'गायमुख' खिंडीत येऊन पोहचतो. खिंडीच्या अलिकडेच एक गाव आहे त्याचे नाव लोहगडवाडी.खिंडीतून उजवीकडे वळले म्हणजे लोहगडास प ास पोहचतो आणि डावीकडे वळले म्हणजे विसापूर किल्ल्यावर पोहचतो.या मार्गेलोहगडावर प्रवेश करतांना चार दरवाजे लागतात.

२) लोणावळ्याहून दुचाकी अथवा चारचाकी वाहनाने थेट लोहगडावाडी पर्यंत जाता येते.पवना धरणाकडे जाणा-या रस्त्याने थोडे पुढे गेल्यावर डावीकडे एक रस्ता लागतो तेथून ३ ते ४ किं मी अंतरावर लोहगडावाडी आहे.उभा चढ आणि अतिशय धोकादायक वळणे आहेत.साधारण अर्धा तासाचा प्रवास आहे.मात्र येथे एसटी महामंडळाची सोय नाही.स्वतःचे वाहन असल्यास उत्तम अथवा लोणवळ्यातून ट्रॅक्सने जाता येते मात्र ट्रॅक्सभाडे १००० रु आहेत.

३) काळे कॉलनी ही पवना धरणाजवळ वसलेली आहे.तेथून लोहगड आणि विसापूर मधील गायमुख खिंड परिसर व्यवस्थित दिसतो.पवना धरणाच्या खालून एक रस्ता गायमुख खिंडीच्या डावीकडील टेक टेकडीवर जातो तेथून एक मळलेलीपायवाटआपणासलोहगडावाडीत घेऊन जाते.या टकडीवर अग्रवाल नावाच्या इसमाचा बंगला आहे.या वाटेने किल्ल्यावर जाण्यास २ तास लागतात.

राहण्याची सोय : लक्ष्मी कोठी रहाण्याची एकमेव सोय आहे.३० ते ४० जण आरामात राहू शकतात.
जेवणाची सोय : आपण स्वतः जेवणाची सोय करावी अथवा लोहगडवाडी मध्यक जेवणाची सोय होते.
पाण्याची सोय : बारामही पिण्यासाठी पाणी उपलब्ध आहे.
जाण्यासाठी लागणारा वेळ : २ तास.

रायगड

  रायगड

 
किल्ल्याची उंची : २९०० फूट
किल्ल्याचा प्रकार : गिरीदुर्ग
डोंगररांगः पुणे
जिल्हा : रायगड
श्रेणी : सोपी
           महाडच्या उत्तरेस २५ कि. मी. वर हा किल्ला असून याची समुद्रसपाटी पासूनची उंची २८५१ फूट आहे. रायगड हा चहुबाजूंनी डोंगररांगांनी वेढलेला आहे. याच्या उत्तरेला आणि पूर्वेला काळ नदीचे खोरे पसरलेले आहे, तर पश्चिमेला गांधारी नदी वाहते. याच्या पूर्वेला लिंगाणा, आग्रेयाला आकाश स्वच्छ असेल तर राजगड, तोरणा दक्षिणेकडे मकरंदगड, प्रतापगड, वासोटा, उत्तरेला कोकणदिवा असा मुलूख दिसतो.
           रायगडपासून मुंबई, पुणे, सातारा ही शहरे सारख्याच अंतरावर आहेत. सह्याद्रीतील किल्ल्यांच्या रांगांतील हा एक दुवा आहे. रायगड हा निसर्गतःच डोंगरांनी वेढलेला असल्यामुळे (तसेच) शत्रूच्या हल्ल्यापासून बचाव व्हावा यासाठी पुणे सोडून पश्चिम डोंगरात रायगड ही राजधानी महाराजानी निवडली.

इतिहास

            रायगडाचे प्राचीन नाव ‘रायरी’ हे होते. युरोपचे लोक त्यास ‘पूर्वेकडील जिब्राल्टर’ असे म्हणत असत. जिब्राल्टरचे ठाणे जितके अजिंक्य तितकाच रायगड अजिंक्य, दुर्गम. पाचशे वर्षांपूर्वी जेव्हा त्यास गडाचे स्वरूप नव्हते व तो नुसता एक डोंगर होता, तेव्हा त्यास ‘रासिवटा’ व ‘तणस’ अशी दोन नावे होती. त्याचा आकार उंची व सभोवतालच्या दर्‍या यावरून त्यास ‘नंदादीप’ असेही नाव पडले. निजामशाहीत रायगडाचा उपयोग कैदी ठेवण्यापुरता होई. मोर्‍यांचा प्रमुख यशवंतराव मोरे जावळीहून पळून रायगडावर जाऊन राहिला तर प्रतापराव मोरे विजापूरास पळाला. महाराजांनी ६ एप्रिल १६५६ रोजी रायरीस म्हणजेच रायगडास वेढा घातला व मे महिन्यात रायरी महाराजांच्या ताब्यात आला. कल्याणचा सुभेदार मुल्ला अहमद खजिना घेऊन विजापूर कडे निघाल्याची बातमी महाराजांना समजली. त्यांनी तो खजिना लुटून रायगडावर आणला व त्या खजिन्याचा उपयोग गडाच्या बांधकामासाठी केला. रायगडाचा माथा राजधानी बनवण्यास सोयीचा व पुरेसा आहे. शत्रूला अवघड वाटणार्‍या प्रदेशातले ते अधिक अवघड ठिकाण आहे. सागरी दळणवळणासही हे ठिकाण जवळ आहे. म्हणून
           महारांजांनी राजधानीसाठी या गडाची निवड केली. सभासद बखर म्हणते, ‘राजा खासा जाऊन पाहता गड बहुत चखोटा. चौतर्फा गडाचे कडे तासिल्याप्रमाणे दिड गांव उंच. पर्जन्यकाळी कडियावर गवत उगवत नाही आणि धोंडा तासीव एकच आहे. दौलताबाद पृथ्वीवर चखोट गड खरा, परंतु तो उंचीने थोडका. दौलताबादचे दशगुणी गड उंच असे देखोन बहुत संतुष्ट झाले आणि बोलिले, तक्तास जागा हाच गड करावा’.

याच दुर्गदुर्गेश्र्वराला १५ विविध नावांनी संबोधिले गेले आहे.

           १.रायगड २.रायरी ३.इस्लामगड ४.नंदादीप ५.जंबुद्विप ६.तणस ७.राशिवटा ८.बदेनूर ९.रायगिरी १०.राजगिरी ११.भिवगड १२.रेड्डी १३.शिवलंका १४.राहीर १५.पूर्वेकडील जिब्राल्टर
           शिवराज्याभिषेक शिवराज्याभिषेक हा रायगडाने अनुभवलेला सर्वश्रेष्ठ प्रसंग महाराजांचा राज्याभिषेक म्हणजे, महाराष्ट्राच्याच नव्हे तर भारताच्या इतिहासातील एक लक्षणीय घटना. ता. १९ मे १६७४ रोजी राज्याभिषेकादि विधीपूर्वी महाराजांनी प्रतापगडाच्या भवानीचे दर्शन घेतले. तीन मण सोन्याचे म्हणजेच ५६ हजार किंमतीचे छत्र देवीला अर्पण केले. गडावरील राजसभेत ता. ६ जून १६७४, ज्येष्ठ शुद्ध १३ शके १५९६, शनिवार या दिवशी राज्याभिषेक संपन्न झाला. ता. २४ सप्टेंबर १६७४, ललिता पंचमी अश्र्िवन शु. ५ आनंद संवत्सर शके १५९६ या दिवशी तांत्रिक पद्धतीने राजांनी स्वतःला आणखी एक राज्याभिषेक करून घेतला. या मागचा खरा हेतू हा जास्तीत जास्त लोकांना समाधान वाटावे हा होता. हा राज्याभिषेक निश्चलपुरी गोसावी याच्या हस्ते पार पडला. कवी भूषण रायगडाचे वर्णन करतो की, ‘शिवाजीने सर्व किल्ल्यांचा आधार व विलासस्थान अशा रायगड किल्ल्यास आपले वसतीस्थान केले. हा किल्ला एवढा प्रचंड आणि विशाल आहे की, त्यात तीनही लोकीचे वैभव साठवले आहे. गडावर विहिरी, सरोवरे, कूप विराजत आहेत. सर्व यवनांना जिंकून रायगडावर राजा शिवाजीने राजधानी केली आणि लोकांचे इच्छित पुरवून जगतात श्रेष्ठ यश संपादन केले.’ इ. स. १६७५ फेब्रुवारी ४, शके १५९६ आनंद संवत्सर माघ व. ५ गुरुवार या दिवशी संभाजी राजांची मुंज रायगडावर झाली. शके १६०१ सिद्धार्थी संवत्सर फाल्गुन व. २, १६८० मार्च ७ या दिवशी राजाराम महाराजांची मुंज रायगडावर झाली. लगेच आठ दिवसांनी राजाराम महाराजांचे लग्र प्रतापराव गुजर यांच्या मुलीशी झाले. रायगडाने अनुभवलेला अत्यंत दुःखद प्रसंग म्हणजे महाराजांचे निधन. शके १६०२ रुद्रनाम संवत्सरे चैत्र शुद्ध पौर्णिमा, हनुमान जयंती, दि. ३ एप्रिल १६८० या दिवशी महाराजांचे निधन झाले. सभासद बखर म्हणते, ‘ते दिवशी पृथ्वीकंप जाहला. अष्टदिशा दिग्दाह होऊन गेल्या. श्रीशंभुमहादेवी तळ्याचे उदक रक्तांबर जाले.’ पुढे शके १६०२ रौद्र संवत्सर माघ शु. ७, इ. स. १६८१ १६ फेब्रुवारी या दिवशी रायगडावर संभाजी महारांजाचे विधिपूर्वक राज्यारोहण झाले. इ. स. १६८४ च्या सप्टेंबरमध्ये औरंगजेबाने रायगडच्या मोहिमेस सुरुवात केली. ता. २१ रोजी शहाबुद्दीन खान यास चाळीस हजार सैन्यासह बादशाहने रायगडाच्या पायथ्याशी धाडले.१५ जानेवारी १६८५ च्या सुमारास शहाबुद्दीने गडाच्या पायथ्याशी असलेल्या एका गावाला आग लावली व लुटालूट चालू केली. पण प्रत्यक्ष रायगडावर हल्ला न करता तो १६८५ च्या मार्चमध्ये परतला. औरंगजेबाने आपला वजीर आसदखान याचा मुलगा इतिकादखान उर्फ झुल्फिकारखान यास सैन्य देऊन रायगड घेण्यास पाठवले. शके १६१० विभव संवत्सर फाल्गुन शु. ३, १२
          फेब्रुवारी १६८९ रोजी राजाराम महाराजांची कारकीर्द सुरू झाली आणि २५ मार्च १६८९ रोजी खानाने गडास वेढा घातला. दि. ५ एप्रिल १६८९ रोजी राजाराम महाराज रायगडावरून निसटून प्रतापगडावर गेले. पुढे जवळजवळ आठ महिने वेढा चालू होता. पण दि. ३ नोव्हेंबर १६८९ रोजी सुर्याजी पिसाळ या किल्लेदाराच्या फितुरीमुळे किल्ला मोगलांना मिळाला. वाईची देशमुखी देण्याचे आमिष दाखवून खानाने त्यास फितुर केले. झुल्फिकारखान हा बादशाहने इतिकादखानला दिलेला किताब आहे. पुढे रायगडचे नामांतर ‘इस्लामगड’ असे झाले. ५ जून १७३३ या दिवशी शाहूमहाराजांच्या कारकिर्दीत रायगड पुन्हा मराठांनी घेतला.

गडावरील पहाण्यासारखी ठिकाणे :

१.पाचाडचा जिजाबाईंचा वाडा : उतारवयात जिजाबाईंना गडावरची थंड हवा, वारा मानवत नसे, म्हणून महाराजांनी त्यांच्यासाठी पाचाडजवळच एक वाडा बांधून दिला. तोच हा मासाहेबांचा राहता वाडा. वाडाची व्यवस्था ठेवण्यासाठी काही अधिकारी तसेच शिपायांची व्यवस्थाही महाराजांनी केली होती. पायर्‍यांची एक उत्तम विहीर, तसेच जिजाबाईंना बसण्यासाठी केलेले दगडी आसन बघण्यासारखे आहे. यास ‘तक्क्याची विहीर’ असेही म्हणतात.

२.खुबलढा बुरूज : गड चढू लागले म्हणजे एक बुरुजाचे ठिकाण दिसते, तोच हा सुप्रसिद्ध खुबलढा बुरूज. बुरुजाशेजारी एक दरवाजा होता, त्यास ‘चित्‌ दरवाजा’ म्हणत पण हा दरवाजा आता पूर्णपणे उध्वस्त झाला आहे.

३.नाना दरवाजा : या दरवाजास ‘नाणे दरवाजा’ असेही म्हणत. या दरवाजाचा संबंध नाना फडणिसांशी लावला जातो ही पूर्णपणे गैरसमजूत आहे. नाना दरवाजा याचाच अर्थ लहान दरवाजा. इ. स. १६७४ च्या मे महिन्यात राज्याभिषेकाच्या निमित्ताने इंग्रजांचा वकील हेन्री ऑक्झेंडन याच दरवाजाने आला होता. या दरवाज्यास दोन कमानी आहेत. दरवाज्याच्या आतील बाजूस पहारेकर्‍यांसाठी दोन लहान खोल्या आहेत. त्यांस ‘देवडा’ म्हणतात. दरवाजास अडसर घालण्यासाठी खोबणी दिसतात.

४.मदारमोर्चा किंवा मशीदमोर्चा : चित्‌ दरवाज्याने गेल्यावर नागमोडी वळणे घेत गेलेल्या रस्त्याने पुढे गेल्यावर एक सपाटी लागते. या मोकळ्या जागेत टोकाशी दोन पडक्या इमारती दिसतात. त्यापैकी एक पहारेकर्‍यांची जागा असून दुसरे धान्याचे कोठार आहे. येथे मदनशहा नावाच्या साधूचे थडगे आहे. तेथे एक प्रचंड तोफही दिसते. येथून पुढे गेल्यावर खडकात खोदलेल्या तीन गुहा दिसतात.

५.महादरवाजा : महादरवाज्याच्या बाहेरील अंगास वर दोन्ही बाजूस दोन सुंदर कमळाकृती कोरल्या आहेत. दरवाज्यावर असणार्‍या या दोन कमळांचा अर्थ म्हणजे किल्ल्याच्या आत ‘श्री आणि सरस्वती’ नांदत आहे. ‘श्री आणि सरस्वती’ म्हणजेच ‘विा व लक्ष्मी’ होय. महादरवाज्याला दोन भव्य बुरूज असून एक ७५ फूट तर दुसरा ६५ फूट उंच आहे. तटबंदीमध्ये जी उतरती भोके ठेवलेली असतात त्यास ‘जंग्या’ म्हणतात. शत्रूवर मारा करण्यासाठी ही भोके ठेवलेली असतात. बुरुजांमधील दरवाजा हा वायव्य दिशेस तोंड करून उभा आहे. महादरवाज्यातून आत आल्यावर पहारेकर्‍यांच्या देवडा दिसतात तसेच संरक्षकांसाठी केलेल्या राहण्याच्या खोल्या दिसतात. महादरवाज्यापासून उजवीकडे टकमक टोकापर्यंत तर डावीकडे हिरकणी टोकापर्यंत तटबंदी बांधलेली आहे.

६.चोरदिंडी : महादरवाज्यापासून उजवीकडे टकमक टोकापर्यंत जी तटबंदी जाते, त्यावरून चालत गेल्यास जिथे ही तटबंदी संपते, त्याच्या थोडे अलीकडे बुरुजात ही चोरदिंडी बांधलेली आहे. बुरुजाच्या आतून दरवाजापर्यंत येण्यासाठी पायर्‍या आहेत.

७.हत्ती तलाव : महादरवाज्यातून थोडे पुढे आल्यावर जो तलाव दिसतो तो हत्ती तलाव. गजशाळेतून येणार्‍या हत्तींच्या स्नानासाठी आणि पिण्यासाठी या तलावाचा उपयोग होत होता.

८.गंगासागर तलाव :
हत्तीतलावापासून जवळच रायगड जिल्हा परिषदेच्या धर्मशाळेच्या इमारती दिसतात. धर्मशाळेपासून दक्षिणेकडे अंदाजे ५० -६० पावले चालत गेल्यास जो तलाव लागतो तो गंगासागर तलाव. महाराज्यांच्या राज्याभिषेकानंतर सप्तसागर व महानांची आणलेली तीर्थेयाच तलावात टाकली गेली. म्हणूनच याचे गंगीसागर असे नाव पडले. शिवकाळात शिबंदीसाठी याचे पाणी वापरण्यात येई.

९.स्तंभ :गंगासागराच्या दक्षिणेस दोन उंच मनोरे दिसतात. त्यासच स्तंभ म्हणतात. जगदीश्र्वराच्या शिलालेखामध्ये ज्या स्तंभांचा उल्लेख केला आहे, ते हेच असावेत. ते पूर्वी पाच मजले होते असे म्हणतात. ते द्वादश कोनी असून बांधकामात नक्षीकाम आढळते.

१०.पालखी दरवाजा :
स्तंभांच्या पश्चिमेस भिंत असलेल्या भागातून ३१ पायर्‍या बांधलेल्या दिसतात. त्या चढून गेल्यावर जो दरवाजा लागतो तो पालखी दरवाजा. या दरवाज्यातून आपल्याला बालेकिल्ल्यात प्रवेश करता येतो.

११.मेणा दरवाजा : पालखी दरवाज्याने वर प्रवेश केला की, चढ – उतार असलेला एक सरळ मार्ग आपल्याला मेणा दरवाजापर्यंत घेऊन जातो. उजव्या हातास जे सात अवशेष दिसतात ते आहेत राण्यांचे महाल. मेणा दरवाज्यातून बालेकिल्ल्यावर प्रवेश करता येतो.

१२.राजभवन : राणीवशाच्या समोर डाव्या हातास दासदासींच्या मकानांचे अवशेष दिसतात. या अवशेषांच्या मागे दुसरी जी समांतर भिंत आहे त्या भिंतीच्या मध्यभागी जो दरवाजा आहे तेथून बालेकिल्ल्याच्या अंतर्भागात प्रवेश केला की जो प्रशस्त चौथरा लागतो तेच हे महाराजांचे राजभवन. राजभवनाचा चौथारा ८६ फूट लांब व ३३ फूट रुंद आहे.
१३. रत्नशाळा : राजप्रासादाजवळील स्तंभांच्या पूर्वेकडे असलेल्या मोकळ्या जागेत एक तळघर आहे, तीच ही रत्नशाळा. हा खलबनखाना म्हणजेच गुप्त बोलणी करण्यासाठी केलेली खोली असावी असेही म्हणतात.

१४.राजसभा : महाराजांचा राज्याभिषेक जेथे झाला, तीच ही राजसभा. राजसभा २२० फूट लांब व १२४ फूट रुंद आहे. येथेच पूर्वेकडे तोंड केलेली सिंहासनाची जागा आहे. येथे बत्तीस मणांचे सोन्याचे सिंहासन होते. सभासद बखर म्हणते, ‘तख्त सुवर्णाचे बत्तीस मणांचे सिद्ध करवले. नवरत्ने अमोलिक जितकी कोशात होती, त्यामध्ये शोध करून मोठी मोलाची रत्ने जडाव केली.’

१५.नगारखाना : सिंहासनाच्या समोर जे भव्य प्रवेशद्वार दिसते तोच हा नगारखाना. हे बालेकिल्ल्याचे मुख्य प्रवेशद्वार आहे. नगारखान्यातून पायर्‍या चढून वर गेले की आपण किल्ल्यावरील सर्वाधिक उंचीवर असतो.

१६.बाजारपेठ : नगारखान्याकडून आपण डावीकडे उतरून आलो की, समोर जी मोकळी जागा दिसते तो ‘होळीचा माळ’. तेथेच आता शिवछत्रपतींचा भव्य पुतळा बसवलेला आहे. पुतळ्यासमोर जे दोन रांगांमध्ये भव्य अवशेष दिसतात तीच शिवकाळातील बाजारपेठ. पेठेच्या दोन रांगात प्रत्येकी २२ दुकाने आहेत. मधून जवळजवळ चाळीस फूट रुंद रस्ता आहे.

१७.शिर्काई देऊळ :
महाराजांच्या पुतळ्याच्या डाव्या बाजूस जे छोटे देऊळ दिसते ते शिर्काईचे देऊळ. शिर्काई ही गडावरील मुख्य देवता.

१८.जगदीश्र्वर मंदिर : बाजारपेठेच्या खालच्या बाजूस पूर्वेकडील उतारावर ब्राह्मणवस्ती, ब्राह्मणतळे वगैरे अवशेष दिसतात. तेथूनच समोर जे भव्य मंदिर दिसते तेच महादेवाचे म्हणजे जगदीश्र्वराचे मंदिर. मंदिरासमोर नंदीची भव्य आणि सुबक मूर्ती आहे. पण सध्या ही मूर्ती भग्रावस्थेत आहे. मंदिरात प्रवेश केला की भव्य सभामंडप लागतो. मंडपाच्या मध्यभागी भव्य कासव आहे. गाभार्‍याच्या भिंतीस हनुमंताची भव्य मूर्ती दिसते. मंदिराच्या प्रवेशद्वाराच्या पायर्‍यांच्या खाली एक लहानसा शिलालेख दिसतो. तो पुढीलप्रमाणे, ‘सेवेचे ठायी तत्पर हिरोजी इटळकर’ या दरवाजाच्या उजव्या बाजूस भिंतीवर एक सुंदर शिलालेख दिसतो तो पुढीलप्रमाणेः-
श्री गणपतये नमः।
प्रासादो जगदीश्र्वरस्य जगतामानंददोनुज्ञया श्रीमच्छत्रपतेः शिवस्यनृपतेः सिंहासने तिष्ठतः।
शाके षण्णवबाणभूमिगणनादानन्दसंवत्सरे ज्योतीराजमुहूर्तकिर्तीमहिते शुक्लेशसापै तिथौ॥१॥
वापीकूपडागराजिरुचिरं रम्यं वनं वीतिकौ स्तभेः कुंभिगृहे नरेन्द्रसदनैरभ्रंलिहे मीहिते।
श्रीमद्रायगिरौ गिरामविषये हीराजिना निर्मितो यावधन्द्रदिवाकरौ विलसतस्तावत्समुज्जृंभते॥२॥
           याचा थोडक्यात अर्थ पुढीलप्रमाणे -’सर्व जगाला आनंददायी असा हा जगदीश्र्वराचा प्रासाद श्रीमद् छत्रपती शिवाजी राजा यांच्या आज्ञेने शके १५९६ मध्ये आनंदनाम संवत्सर चालू असताना सुमुहुर्तावर निर्माण केला. या रायगडावर हिरोजी नावाच्या शिल्पकाराने विहिरी, तळी, बागा, रस्ते, स्तंभ, गजशाळा, राजगृहे आशांची उभारणी केली आहे. ती चंद्रसूर्य असेतोवर खुशाल नांदो.’

१९.महाराजांची समाधी : मंदिराच्या पूर्वदरवाजापासून थोडा अंतरावर जो अष्टकोनी चौथरा दिसतो तीच महाराजांची समाधी. सभासद बखर म्हणते, ‘क्षत्रियकुलावतंस श्रीमन्महाराजाधिराज शिवाजी महाराज छत्रपती यांचा काल शके १६०२ चैत्र शुद्ध १५ या दिवशी रायगड येथे झाला. देहाचे सार्थक त्याणी बांधिलेला जगदीश्र्वराचा जो प्रासाद त्याच्या महाद्वाराच्या बाहेर दक्षणभागी केले. तेथे काळ्या दगडाच्या चिर्‍याचे जोते अष्टकोनी सुमारे छातीभर उंचीचे बांधिले असून वरून फरसबंदी केलेली आहे. फरसबंदीच्या खाली पोकळी आहे, तीत महाराजांचा अवशिष्टांश रक्षामिश्र मृत्तिकारुपाने सापडतो.’ दहनभूमी पलीकडे भग्र इमारतींच्या अवशेषांची एक रांग आहे, ते शिबंदीचे निवासस्थान असावे. त्याच्या पलीकडे सदर वस्तीपासून विलग असा एक घराचा चौथरा दिसतो. हे घर इ. स. १६७४ मध्ये इंग्रज वकील हेन्री ऑक्झेंडन यास राहावयास दिले होते. महाराजांच्या समाधीच्या पूर्वेकडे भवानी टोक आहे तर उजवीकडे दारूची कोठारे, बारा टाकी दिसतात.

२०.कुशावर्त तलाव : होळीचा माळ डाव्या हातास सोडून उजवीकडील वाट कुशावर्त तलावाकडे जाते. तलावाजवळ महादेवाचे छोटेसे देऊळ दिसते. देवळासमोर फुटलेल्या अवस्थेत नंदी दिसतो.

२१.वाघदरवाजा : कुशावर्त तलावाजवळून घळीने उतरत वाघ दरवाजाकडे जाता येते. आज्ञापत्रात लिहिले आहे की, ‘किल्ल्यास एक दरवाजा थोर आयब आहे, यांकरीता गड पाहून एक दोन – तीन दरवाजे, तशाच चोरदिंडा करून ठेवाव्या. त्यामध्ये हमेशा राबत्यास पाहिजे तितक्या ठेवून वरकड दरवाजे व दिंडा चिणून टाकाव्या.’ हे दूरदर्शीपणाचे धोरण ठेऊनच महाराजांनी महादरवाजाशिवाय हा दरवाजा बांधून घेतला. या दरवाज्याने वर येणे जवळजवळ अशक्यच असले तरी दोर लावून खाली उतरू शकतो. पुढे राजाराम महाराज व त्यांची मंडळी झुल्फिरखानाचा वेढा फोडून याच दरवाज्याने निसटली होती.

२२.टकमक टोक : बाजारपेठेच्या समोरील टेपावरून खाली उतरून टकमक टोकाकडे जाता येते. तेथेच एका दारूच्या कोठाराचे अवशेष दिसतात. जसजसे आपण टोकाकडे जातो तसतसा रस्ता निमुळता होत जातो. उजव्या हाताला सरळ तुटलेला २६०० फूट खोल कडा आहे. टोकावर वारा प्रचंड असतो व जागाही कमी असल्यामुळे गोंधळ न करता सावधानता बाळगावी

२३.हिरकणी टोक : गंगासागराच्या उजवीकडे पश्चिमेस जी चिंचोळी वाट जाते ती हिरकणी टोकाकडे जाते. हिरकणी टोकाशी संबंधित हिरकणी गवळणीची एक कथा सांगितली जाते. या बुरुजावर काही तोफाही ठेवलेल्या दिसतात. बुरुजावर उभे राहिले तर डाव्या हाताला गांधारीचे खोरे, उजव्या बाजूला काळ नदीचे खोरे दिसते. तसेच इथून पाचाड, खुबलढा बुरूज, मशीद मोर्चा ही ठिकाणे तोफेच्या मार्‍यात आहेत. त्यामुळे युद्धशास्त्राच्या तसेच लढाऊ दृष्टीने ही खूप महत्त्वाची आणि मोक्याची जागा आहे.

गडावर जाण्याच्या वाटा :

मुंबई – गोवा मार्गावरील महाड या बस स्थानकामधून : मुंबई – गोवा मार्गावरील महाड या बस स्थानकामधून रायगडासाठी बसेस सुटतात. तसेच बस स्थानका बाहेरून जीपगाडाही जातात. बसने आल्यावर चित्‌ दरवाज्यापाशी, (जो आता अस्तित्वात नाही) जिथे पायर्‍या सुरू होतात तेथे उतरून पायर्‍यांनी गडावर जाता येते. जवळजवळ १५०० पायर्‍या चढून गेल्यावर महादरवाजातून आपला गडात प्रवेश होतो.
नाना दरवाजाकडूनही : नाना दरवाजाकडूनही आपण गड चढू शकतो. पायर्‍यांकडून जो डांबरी रस्ता पुढे जातो त्या रस्त्याने थोडे पुढे जाऊन उजवीकडे एक पायवाट जाते. त्या वाटेने गेल्यास नानादरवाजाने आपण गड चढू शकतो.
रोप-वे : आता गडावर जाण्यासाठी रोप-वेची व्यवस्था झाल्याने पायथ्यापासून १० ते १५ मिनिटांत आपण गडावर पोहचू शकतो.
राहण्याची सोय : रायगड जिल्हा परिषदेच्या धर्मशाळेमध्ये राहण्यासाठी खोल्या उपलब्ध आहेत. तसेच एम.टी.डी.सी. च्या बंगल्यांमध्ये किंवा डॉरमिटरी हॉलमध्ये राह्ण्याची सोय होऊ शकते. रायगड जिल्हा परिषद, तालुका महाड, जिल्हा रायगड अथवा महाराष्ट्र राज्य पर्यटन केंद्र,संपर्क केल्यास राहण्याची सोय होऊ शकेल.

पाण्याची सोय : बारामही पिण्याचे पाणी उपलब्ध आहे.
जाण्यासाठी लागणारा वेळ : २ तास
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